House hunting and the powers that be

This may come as news to some of you – it did to me eight months ago – but Laos is one of the world’s few remaining communist states. The full name of the country is officially the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, and the only legal political party is the Lao People’s Revolutionary Party. The government publishes all newspapers, including two foreign language papers. Missionary work of any flavour is regulated. And when any staff of Mike’s organization visits the field projects they must be accompanied by a government official – an official who gets paid a per diem by the NGO for their time.

Here in Laos, I have been pondering how I may be able to periodically touch on the topics of God, the policies and practices of the organization Mike works for, or the government, without treading on any toes. I haven’t come up with anything brilliant yet. So, in the meantime, I’ve decided to try using the phrase “the powers that be” to refer to the three aforementioned entities and leave it to the reader to figure out which one I might be talking about.

I apologize in advance if this proves confusing. So, too, can life be here.

During the past two weeks we have continued the house hunting that Mike began while he was here without me in April and May. There are no classifieds we can read, or website we can search. If you need to find a house in Luang Prabang you have exactly two options. You can walk the streets looking for hand-painted “house for rent” signs attached to gates and then have a Lao-speaker call the contact phone number on the sign. Or, you can go through a local agent – someone who’s job it is to find out where all the houses for rent are hiding and to negotiate on your behalf with prospective landlords.

Phet is just such an agent, and the day after we arrived I took a deep breath, put on the helmet she had borrowed for me, and climbed onto the back of her motorcycle. We saw five houses that day, and I came back excited. Two, I thought, were good options. One of those options Mike hadn’t yet seen.

I tried to describe it to him over dinner that night.

“We went over the wooden pedestrian bridge across the Khan,” I said. “Then we turned left and went down a dirt road.”

“How far?” Mike asked.

“Oh, I don’t know. Not far. It was a really pretty road – all jungly and tropical. There were temples, and plants, and another wooden bridge. It was very atmospheric,” I said.

“Atmospheric,” Mike repeated, as if that may not be the most satisfactory of descriptors for an access road.

“What was the house like?” he asked.

“Oh, it was cool,” I said. “There was a big veranda on the top, and broken pool out the back, and two cute dogs. The dogs were very friendly, but they belong to the…”

“The house,” Mike reminded me.

“It had two big rooms up the top, and another room that was locked and they couldn’t find the key. So I didn’t see that one. But the stairs were good. And there were tiles on the floor. And lots of trees. And it was quiet. And I liked it.”

“What about water tanks?” Mike asked. “Was it on city water? Was there a big water heater? Was there glass on the windows, and screens? Fans? Did all the air conditioners work? Was there a phone line into the house?”

“I dunno,” I said, realizing for the first time that I may have neglected to pay attention to a couple of key attributes. “I’m pretty sure there was a phone line. I think there was glass on the windows.”

“You think,” Mike closed his eyes and took a deep breath. I hoped he was visualizing us sitting in hammocks on a tree-shaded veranda, debriefing our days over a cold drink. But I figured it was more likely that he was lodging a quick request with the powers that be for extra patience.

“OK,” he said after he opened his eyes again. “We’ll see if we can go see it together this weekend.”

We did take a truck to go see it that weekend, and by the time we’d found the vehicle bridge over the river Khan (a good deal further away from the house than the pedestrian bridge suitable for motorcycle traffic) and bumped our way down three torturously slow, bone jarring, head-banging, kilometers, I was deflated.

“Getting in and out of here on anything other than a motorcycle would be tough, wouldn’t it,” I said.

“Yeah,” Mike said gently. “It’d be tough. Especially when it rained. And you might end up feeling very isolated.”

My beautiful vision of us on the veranda dissolved and was replaced by a picture of motorcycling along a dirt road to do the grocery shopping during a monsoonal downpour. That was the end of our quest to acquire the jungle house – which was just as well, really, because Phet informed us later that day that the landlady had changed her mind about evicting the current tenants after all – and it was back to the drawing board.

But we’ve now seen 27 houses, and it’s beginning to get seriously demoralizing. Some houses have no air conditioners, or glass in the windows. Some have no phone lines installed (and, hence, no possibility of in-house internet). Most have no external hot water heaters. Some are nestled in between construction sites, of which there are many in Luang Prabang at present. Some are beautiful, but sit right on a main road and beside local restaurants. And where there is a local restaurant there is beerlao. And where there is beerlao there will likely be karaoke.

If you don’t count my short-lived infatuation with the jungle house, or the stunningly beautiful way-out-of-our-price-range house in the hills outside of town (a house of two pools, luscious gardens, hanging plants, shinning wooden balustrades, and an in-house bar), we’ve found exactly one house we really liked. Number 18. A wooden house perched on the banks of the Mekong.

But on Sunday afternoon (after three visits to this house, four long emails, and two extended meetings with Phet and the prospective landlord) the negotiations broke down. The landlord, you see, had suddenly decided to only offer us a contract for rent that went to the end of April 2011, and the powers that be require us to rent a house for an entire year at a time.

To complicate matters further, the powers that be require us to pay the entire years worth of rent in advance. This removes any economic incentive for landlords to make ongoing improvements to the property. This means that what we move into is probably what we will be stuck with.

To complicate matters even further, the powers that be have decreed that those on tourist visas must rent rooms in guesthouses, rather than renting houses privately. Just this week, the powers that be have been visiting houses inhabited by foreigners, checking up on them, and evicting any who hold tourist visas.

And, to complicate matters even further, the powers that be have not yet issued Mike’s work visa (although it has been in progress since February). Yet other powers that be are very eager to see us in a house, and are urging us to make a decision and just get on with it.

I am not eager to get on with it, as the leading option at the moment is the house on the main road beside the restaurant. I am also not eager to stay indefinitely in the guesthouse – that bastion of slamming doors, late-night voices, and neighborly circular saws. I am, in other words, a bit stuck.

So if any of you dear readers are in a position to have a quiet and respectful word on our behalf with the powers that be regarding these matters, please… go right ahead.


20 responses to “House hunting and the powers that be

  1. Lis you’re brilliant- as well as a thoroughly enjoyable read with periodic laugh-out-loud moments, this is once again a really well constructed piece of writing. Hat off. May the powers that be smile on you.

  2. Sending a message to The power now. Love S

  3. A living space that is also a refuge is high on my personal priority list. I look forward in faith to hearing how the powers that be arrange things for you. This was a tremendously fun post to read. It was like brain candy.

  4. Believing that the Powers that Be will provide exactly what you and Mike need. Thanks for including me in your updates. I love your writing and wait for your next book.

  5. The PTB — powers that be.

    Is it weird that I thought of TV’s Angel entirely too often during that post!?

    Either way, consider the PTB consulted!

  6. It was the best of houses and the worst of houses, and now it is the longest ever lived in of houses after 14 plus years. And we just accepted what someone else picked for us before we arrived–how’s that for trusting the PTB. If only every situation worked out so well from our perspective.

    • Yes indeed, if only. Yeah, I think I would have adapted if we’d been “moved in” pre arrival. But since we weren’t, and since where we live is where I’m going to have to work out of, I want to give us the best chance possible of really liking the place. Ah, the burdens and joys of choice. Hope you guys are well!

  7. Hello there precious sister Lisa,

    WOW! Long time, not talk…or…rather, write. 🙂

    I don’t know if you remember me. I interviewed you for Christian Women Online Magazine about a year ago.

    Anyway, it sure was nice to get caught up on you again. And as usual, Daddy (aka, Powers that BE…or rather, the only Power that Be ;-)) has used you to bring a smile to my face and a good, hearty chuckle. I LOVE how you tell stories!

    Keep in touch sister. And I will certainly be speaking to Daddy on yours and Mike’s behalf. Since our Daddy owns everything, I am sure He will supply you both with all that you need and more; for all things asked in our Great Brother’s name is “YES!” from Daddy. 🙂

  8. Hi Lisa, we’re friends of Mike’s from Atlanta, and we live in Bangkok…I got an email with this blog address and hopped over to see what y’all were up to. I can picture every scene in your description in vivid detail! Though Laos is, no doubt, a very different place than Thailand, I’m sure many things overlap. And we’re practically neighbors, so if you’re coming this way, do let us know. I hope you find a house that suits you, and soon!

    • Hi Rhianna, Lovely to hear from you. I’ll tell Mike you popped over to say hi. Good to know you’re in Bangkok, too, and we’ll no doubt be there at some stage so we’ll let you know. You do likewise if you’re coming up to LP.

  9. Pingback: The circle of your passion | Wandering. Wondering. Writing.

  10. Pingback: Links to laugh at and Mekong adventures | Lisa McKay Writing

  11. Pingback: Links to laugh at and Mekong adventures | LisaMcKayWriting

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